I've mentioned before that I discovered food blogs while searching for a recipe for
Cha Ca Thang Long (Vietnamese Hanoi-Style Turmeric Fish with Dill). I can't remember why I was craving those particular flavors at that time. It's not a dish I grew up eating as dill is mainly used in northern Vietnamese cooking. Besides, for me, since
cha ca literally means fish paste, I think of my mom's fish paste patties.
Unless you're Vietnamese, the nuances of regional differences won't make much sense to you. No more is that clear than when it comes to speech. There are six tones so just a different inflection will be a different word. Throw in three A's (
a,
ă, and
â), two E's (
e and
ê), one I but sometimes Y, three O's (o,
ô, and
Æ¡), and two U's (
u and
Æ°). The accents are on top of each of the vowels. There are also two D's (
d and
Ä‘).
I remember reading once that when you're young, you learn languages on one side of the brain. While my Vietnamese isn't as fluent as my English, I can still navigate Vietnamese pretty well. Or rather, I should say South-Central Vietnamese. Northern Vietnamese with its ZZZZ sounds for the letters D, G, and R completely throw me for a loop. I can feel the other side of my brain shifting as it takes several seconds to translate the Northern dialect into South-Central before I can understand what someone is saying. In some cases, with the completely different vocabulary for some simple objects and I can't understand at all.
For me, being in Hanoi was akin to the time I lived in London. Technically, we were speaking the same language, but the different pronunciations and vocabulary often left me blank.
Granted, I wasn't at my best my first day in Hanoi. I was fighting a cold that had me alternately dizzy and sniffling. I thought Saigon was hot, but Hanoi was an absolute sauna. And the very first place my Vietnamese teachers/tour guides took us to was to you-know-who's mausoleum and museum.
Surreal.
Then we had an extremely overpriced (by Vietnam standards), but very delicious lunch of the aforementioned
cha ca Thang Long at the restaurant that invented the dish, Cha Ca La Vong.
Afterward, I pleaded off from the rest of the day's tours because I was simply too sick to push on through. So I missed the trip to
Van Mieu (Temple of Literature).
By the end of the month, Hanoi had grown on me a little bit. On my last day, I woke up super early and started at
Hoan Kiem (Returned Sword Lake) to catch people exercising around the lake.
Then, I hailed a
xe om (motorbike hug), Vietnamese slang for a person who hires out their motorbike like a taxi, to take me to
Van Mieu. While I'm much more comfortable in Saigon, I can appreciate Hanoi for its centuries of Vietnamese history.
Built in 1070,
Van Mieu was erected as a Confucian temple. In 1076, it housed
Quoc Tu Giam (Imperial Academy), Vietnam's first university, educating bureaucrats, nobles, and other members of the elite until 1779.